So You Want To Build A Pond?

I guess the first question I would ask would be: why? I don't mean that in a smart alec sense, but a serious one. Why you need the pond has a lot to do with its planning and design. Farmers have been building ponds for years for livestock water and irrigation, but ponds serve a variety of other purposes such as fish production, fire protection, energy conservation, wildlife habitat, recreation, erosion control, and landscape improvement. No matter what the purpose, a well-designed pond will provide years of service.

 

There are two basic types of ponds: embankment and excavation.

Embankment ponds are built by placing an embankment or dam across a stream or watercourse where the stream valley is depressed enough to permit storing 5 feet or more of water.

Excavated ponds are made by digging a pit or dugout in a nearly level area. Because the water capacity is obtained almost entirely by digging, excavated ponds are best used where only a small supply of water is needed.

After you've decided the why of the pond, you need to consider the where. Selection of the pond site is one of the most important steps in construction. If possible, consider more than one location and then evaluate each one's economic, accessibility, and safety factors.

For economy, locate the pond where the largest storage volume can be obtained with the least amount of earthfill. Say, in a valley where a dam can be built across a narrow section where slopes are steep, and the slope of the valley floor permits a large area to be flooded.

If the pond is to be used to water livestock, locate it in or near each pasture or grazing unit. Forcing livestock to travel long distances to water is detrimental to both the livestock and the grazing area.
If the pond water will have to be conveyed for use elsewhere, such as for irrigation or fire protection, locate the pond close to the major water use. Conveying water is expensive, so the shorter the distance, the better. Otherwise it may not be practical.

Ponds intended for recreational purposes, such as fishing, boating, and swimming, should be accessible. Income-producing ponds, used by the general public, must be easily reached by automobile.

Avoid pollution of pond water by selecting a location where drainage from farmsteads, feedlots, corrals, sewage lines, mine dumps, and similar areas does not reach the pond.

Consider the possibility of failure of the pond's dam and the damage that could result from the sudden release of water, such as loss of life, injury to persons or livestock, and damage to homes.

Be sure that no buried pipelines or cables cross the proposed pond site. If they do, you must notify the utility company before starting construction and obtain permission to excavate.

Other factors to consider:

Adequacy of the drainage area - For ponds where surface runoff is the main source of the water, the contributing drainage area must be large enough to maintain water in the pond during droughts. The physical characteristics that affect the amount of runoff are relief, soil infiltration, plant cover, and surface storage. Storm characteristics, such as amount, intensity, and duration of rainfall, obviously will also affect runoff.

Minimum pond depth - To avoid shortages of water, the water must be deep enough to meet the requirements of its intended use, and to offset probable seepage and evaporation losses. To estimate pond capacity, use this simple method:

  • Establish the normal pond-full water elevation and stake the waterline at this elevation.
  • Measure the width of the valley at this elevation at regular intervals and use these measurements to computer the pond-full surface area in acres.
  • Multiply the surface area by 0.4 times the maximum water depth in feet measured at the dam.

Drainage area protection - To maintain the required depth and capacity of a pond, the inflow of water must be reasonably free of silt. Land under permanent cover of trees or vegetation provides the most desirable drainage area. For cultivated drainage areas, application and maintenance of erosion control practices is essential to their protection.

Landscape - To maximize visibility of the pond, locate it so that the major sight line crosses the longest dimension of water surface. This way the viewer will see the water before noticing the dam, pipe inlet, or spillway. Ponds designed around existing vegetation will help blend the pond into the surroundings. The vegetation will provide shade on hot days as well as habitat for wildlife.

You've got your location, and you're ready to build. What's next? It depends on the type of pond you are building.

Embankment Ponds

Before beginning construction of this type of pond, a site survey is needed to plan and design the dam, spillways, and other features. If you are not familiar with the use of surveying equipment, consult a licensed surveyor for this step.

Pond surveys usually consist of a profile of the centerline of the dam, a profile of the centerline of the earth spillway, and enough measurements to estimate pond capacity (see the simple method above). Larger and more complex ponds may need a complete topographic survey of the entire pond site.

All surveys made at the pond site should be tied to a reference called a bench mark. A bench mark could be a large spike driven into a tree, an iron rod driven flush with the ground, or any object that will be undisturbed during and after construction of the dam.

A detailed investigation of the soils in the pond area is also necessary. Identifying the soil type(s) in the pond area, will help determine the soil's ability to hold water and, therefore the suitability of the pond site. The soil should contain a layer of material the is impervious and thick enough to prevent excessive seepage. Clays and silty clays are excellent; coarse-textured sands and sand-gravel mixes are not. Limestone or shale areas should be avoided because of possible fractures which create leaks. Swampy areas are poor sites because they are difficult to drain and costly to maintain.

If there is a question as to whether the soils in the area are sufficiently impervious, soil borings should be done over the area to be covered by water. Three or four borings per acre may be enough if the soils are uniform. If they prove significantly different, more borings would be recommended.

The ability to hold water isn't the only reason to determine the soil type. The soil will also be providing the foundation for the dam, ensuring stable support of the structure. Good foundation materials are a mixture of coarse- and fine-textured soils, such as gravel-sand-clay mixtures, gravel-sand-silt mixtures, sand-clay mixtures, and sand-silt mixtures.

As for fill material for the dam, preferably, enough suitable material can be found close to the site so that it's not necessary to bring material in that adds to expenses. Fill material can be taken from the reservoir area, leaving the surrounding landscape undisturbed and borrow areas will not be visible. Generally, soils that are acceptable as foundation material also make good fill material.

Spillways are a necessary part of embankment pond construction in order to avoid a breach in the dam. In ponds of 10 acres or less, a vegetated spillway is sufficient to control runoff during rainstorms. Ponds larger in size should have a principal spillway in addition to a vegetated spillway. The principal spillway should be designed with a pipe inlet that controls the pond level, provides drainage for pond repairs, and allows water to escape without erosion.

Building an earthfill dam

Foundation

A safe earthfill dam can be built on almost any foundation if you thoroughly investigate the foundation and adapt the design and construction to the conditions. However, keep in mind that the cost of construction on less desirable foundations may not be justified for smaller ponds.

Good foundations consist of soil underlain at a shallow depth by a thick layer or relatively impervious consolidated clay or sandy clay. In this case, topsoil can be removed and scarified or disked to provide a bond with the material in the dam.

Cutoff

If the dam's foundation is covered by alluvial deposits of pervious sands and gravels at or near the surface and rock or clay at a greater depth, seepage in the pervious material can be reduced by installing a cutoff or core trench.

A cutoff is most commonly made of compacted clayey material. A trench is excavated along the centerline of the dam deep enough to extend well into the impervious layer. This trench also extends into and up the abutments of the dam as far as there is any pervious material that might allow seepage. The trench is filled with successive thin layers of clay or sandy clay material, which is compacted thoroughly before placing the next layer.

Top width and alignment

Following are recommended minimum top widths for earth embankments:

Height of dam (ft)
Minimum top width (ft)
Under 10
6
11 to 14
8
15 to 19
10
20 to 24
12
25 to 34
14

Depending on the situation, a curved alignment is more desirable than a straight alignment. Curved alignments will retain existing landscape elements, reduce the apparent size of the dam, and blend the dam into surrounding natural landforms.

Side slopes

The side slopes of a dam depend primarily on the stability of the fill and on the strength and stability of the foundation material. The more stable the fill material, the steeper the side slopes, however, keep in mind that you may be mowing those side slopes.

Slopes should not be steeper than shown below, but they can be flatter as long as they provide surface drainage.

 
Slope
Fill material
Upstream
Downstream
Clayey sand, clayey gravel, sandy clay, silty sand, silty gravel
3:1
2:1
Silty clay, clayey silt
3:1
3:1
Settlement allowance To allow for settlement, build earth dams somewhat higher than the design dimensions. Most foundations are yielding, and settlement may range from 1 to 6 percent of the height of the dam, mainly during construction.
Estimating the volume of the earthfill

Estimate the number of cubic yards of earthfill required to build the dam. The estimate should include:

  • volume in the dam itself including the allowance for settlement,
  • volume required to backfill the cutoff trench,
  • volume required to backfill stream channels or holes in the foundation area, and
  • any other volume of earthfill the contractor is required to move

Unless you have all the necessary equipment, you will probably want to employ a contractor to build your pond. Have a set of drawings and specifications ready to show the contractor what is to be done.

Drawings should show all elevations and dimensions of the dam, the dimensions and extent of the cutoff trench and other areas requiring backfill, the location and dimensions of the spillways, and any other pertinent information.

Specifications should give all the information not shown on the drawing that is necessary to define what is to be done, prescribe how the work is to be done if such direction is required, specify the quality of material and workmanship required, and define the method of measurement and the unit of payment for the various items of work that constitute the whole job.

Excavated Ponds

Excavated ponds are the simplest to build in relatively flat terrain. They are practical where the demand for water is small since their size is obtained by excavation. They are popular due to the ease with which they can be constructed, their compactness, their relative safety from flood-flow damage, and their low maintenance requirements.

There are two types of excavated ponds. One is fed by surface runoff and the other is fed by ground water aquifers. Excavated ponds fed by runoff can be used in areas of comparatively flat, but well-drained terrain, in a broad natural drainageway, or in the low point of a natural depression. Those fed by ground water aquifers should be located only in areas of flat or nearly flat topography where the permanent water table is within a few feet of the surface.

Determining the soil type at the location of an excavated pond is an important part of the planning and design process. Soil borings, like I mentioned for the embankment ponds, can be done for this step. If the pond will be fed by surface runoff, enough impervious soil at the site is essential to avoid excess seepage. Fine-textured clay and silty clay that extend well below the proposed pond depth make the most desirable sites. Avoid soils underlain by limestone, which can contain crevices, sinks, and channels. Observe other ponds in the area of your proposed site. If they're not holding water like they should, well...

For ponds fed by water-bearing sand or sand-gravel layer, the layer must be thick enough and permeable enough to yield water at a rate that satisfies the maximum expected demand for water and overcomes evaporation losses. This layer should also be at a depth that can be reached practically and economically - not more than 20 feet. Test holes drilled at intervals over the site will help indicate the normal water level in the completed pond (Check these holes during drier seasons too, to avoid being misled by temporarily high water tables).

If you locate an excavated pond fed by surface runoff on sloping terrain,you can use a part of the excavated material for a small low dam around the lower end and sides of the pond to increase its capacity. An auxiliary spillway will be necessary to pass excess storm runoff around the dam. Ponds excavated in areas of flat terrain generally require constructed spillways.

Excavated ponds can be built in almost any shape, but rectangular is most common in areas of flat terrain. It is simple to build and can be adapted to all kinds of excavating equipment. The rectangular form can be edge shaped with a blade scraper to create an irregular shape that blends in with the surrounding landscape.

Plan the placement or disposal of waste material excavated from the pond in advance of construction operations. Waste material can be stacked, spread or removed from the site, depending on the situation. If not removed from the site, it can prove very functional by screening undesirable views, buffering noise and wind, filling in low areas in nearby fields, or improving the site's suitability for recreation.

Steps to building an excavated pond:

Clear the pond area of all undesired vegetation. Mark the outside limits of the proposed excavation with stakes. On the stakes indicate the depth of cut from the ground surface to the pond bottom.

Excavate and place the waste material as close as possible to the lines and grades staked on the site.

Seal the pond to prevent excessive seepage. There are several methods of doing this:

Compaction - this method can be used when the soil contains a wide range of particle sizes and enough clay (10% or more) and silt to effect a seal. It's the least expensive method, and the procedure is simple: remove rocks and tree roots, fill holes and crevices with impervious material, and roll the soil to a dense, tight layer.
Clay blankets - pond areas containing high percentages of coarse-grained soils that lack enough clay to prevent excessive seepage, can be sealed by blanketing. Blankets should consist of well-graded material at least 20% clay and cover the entire area over which water is to be impounded. Spread the material in layers, 6 to 8 inches thick, and compact each one thoroughly.
Bentonite - in soils containing high percentages of coarse-grained particles and not enough clay, bentonite helps reduce seepage. Bentonite is a fine-textured colloidal clay. It absorbs several times its own weight in water and, at complete saturation, swells as much as 8 to 20 times its original volume. Bentonite has its drawbacks, however. It does swell to the point of near imperviousness, but when it dries, it returns to its original volume, leaving cracks. If the water level for a pond fluctuates widely, this is probably not the best sealing method to use.
Chemical additives - due to the structure or arrangement of clay particles, seepage if often excessive in fine-grained clay soils. If these particles are arranged at random with end-to-plate or end-to-end contacts, they form an open, porous, or honeycomb structure; the soil is said to be aggregated. Applying small amounts of certain chemicals to porous aggregates collapses the open structure and rearranges the clay particles thereby reducing soil permeability. The chemicals used are called dispersing agents. Chemical treatment is not effective in coarse-grained soils.
Waterproof linings - polyethylene, vinyl, butyl-rubber membranes, and asphalt-sealed fabric liners are gaining wide acceptance as linings for ponds because they virtually eliminate seepage if properly installed. Some linings are more expensive than others, and some age better than others, however all are highly vulnerable to punctures. Be extremely careful when installing them.

Establish vegetation soon after construction, preferably native varieties. Trees, shrubs, grasses, and forbs provide erosion control, screening, space definition, climate control, and wildlife habitat.

 

Where you go with your pond after construction is finished will depend on its purpose (see above), but whatever its purpose, your pond should be maintained. Inspect it regularly, especially after heavy rains to determine whether it is functioning properly or if it needs repairs. Be sure to repair any damage, no matter how small it may seem - it can lead to bigger (and more expensive) repairs later.

Maintain the protective plant cover on dams and spillways by mowing them frequently and fertilizing when needed. Mowing helps prevent the growth of woody plants where undesirable and helps develop a cover and root system more resistant to runoff.

Strive to keep the water in your pond as clean and unpolluted as possible. Divert drainage from barn lots, feeding yards, or any other source of contamination away from the pond. Clean water is especially important in ponds used for wildlife, recreation, and water supply.

In areas where surface water encourages mosquito breeding, stock the pond with topfeeding fish. Gambusia minnows are particularly effective in controlling mosquitoes. With the number of West Nile Virus instances during the last couple of years, this step is an important one for health reasons.

For more detailed information on building a pond, I recommend reading the publications listed below. (These publications are also available at the Clark County SWCD office.)

Ponds - Planning, Design, Construction - this link allows you to order or download a copy of this 85 page booklet available from the Natural Resources Conservation Service.

Fish Pond Management - an excellent resource on stocking and managing fish ponds (out of print but may be downloaded).

 


 

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